Microchipping: Think Barcode Not GPS

There are many benefits to having your beloved pet microchipped. Tracking him via GPS, however, is not one of them.

A microchip provides a unique identification number to a pet. The microchip itself is not much bigger than a grain of rice and is injected under the skin between the pet's shoulder blades through a special needle. Many microchips are implanted while a pet is anesthetized for their spay or neuter, but sedation is not necessary. The momentary prick of the needle is well-tolerated by awake pets (as all of my microchipped dogs and cats can attest).

Once the microchip is implanted it must be activated or it will be of no use. Make sure you ask the person who implanted the microchip--your veterinarian or animal shelter--if they will be activating the microchip on your behalf. Regardless of who activates the microchip it is your responsibility to provide emergency contact information to the microchip company. If you move or change phone numbers, you must contact the microchip company to update their database.

There are many, many microchip providers. In the early days of microchip implantation everybody used a different type of chip with different frequency chip readers, so there were sometimes problems accessing the microchip information. For example, in those days, the animal shelter's microchip scanner might identify a microchip was present but might not be able to read the number. Fortunately, microchip companies have agreed on a standardized system and most veterinarians and animal control officers have "universal" microchip readers that can identify the number from any brand of microchip.

Nowadays, if your lost microchipped pet is picked up by the animal control officer or brought to a veterinarian, a universal microchip scanner will be passed over your pet's neck, shoulders, back and sides. Your pet's unique identification number will be typed into an online microchip search engine. Based on the brand-specific configuration of the microchip number (its number and/or letter sequence) the search engine will provide contact information for the particular microchip company. The animal control officer or veterinarian will then contact the microchip company to get your name and telephone number so you can be reunited with your pet.

Too many times, however, the database has inaccurate, out-dated information. Owners often move or get rid of phone numbers and forget to inform the microchip company. Some but not all microchip companies charge a fee to update contact information, but this nominal fee is worth the "insurance" that you can be reached if your pet is lost or stolen some time in the future.

While currently there are no GPS microchips* available, some microchip companies provide additional membership benefits beyond the "barcode" identification service. Free poison control case consultation, 24/7 veterinary advice (such as "Can my pet wait until tomorrow to be seen by his regular veterinarian for this concern or is it a true emergency?"), help locating a veterinarian while traveling, and proactive pet searches (e.g., lost dog posters sent to veterinarians, shelters and volunteer searchers in the area where a pet went missing) are some examples of additional benefits from having certain brands of microchip in place.

Pet microchips have reunited countless lost animals with their human families. There are amazing stories of pets being found hundreds of miles from home and years after disappearing, but countless more stories of momentarily lost pets being quickly returned home after a brief layover at animal control. Collars and tags can become lost or removed, but a microchip is a permanent and unique way of identifying your pet in the event it goes missing.


* There are special collars available with tracking devices, but these are used mostly on hunting or working dogs.

So You've Been Adopted by a Stray Kitty. Now What?



Larry, Day 1

Heading into the clinic after lunch Friday, a strange baby cry greeted me by the back door. A tiny, bedraggled kitten ventured toward me. Cautiously I picked him up. Immediately his little velcro claws stuck to my shirt and a disproportionately loud purr began. I was hooked.

Has this happened to you yet? So many of my feline patients began their lives as strays, the arrival of little Larry seems like a perfect time to discuss how to bring a stray into your home.

1. When interacting with a stray cat (or any unknown animal), use caution! He may not be used to being handled and could bite or scratch out of fear. Rabies does affect cats, and many do not exhibit the classic Cujo signs of rabidity.

2. If the stray is amenable to being handled, make a veterinary appointment for him as soon as possible. Until then, keep him quarantined from your other pets to limit transmission of contagious diseases and parasites. Best not to let your children play with him either until he passes veterinary inspection.

3. Fleas are very common on strays. Poor Larry was covered in them. Where the black pellets of "flea dirt" (i.e., flea poop which is digested blood) had gotten wet, his white patches of fur were stained red! I DO NOT RECOMMEND GIVING A FLEA BATH. The chemicals in flea shampoos can be toxic--especially in cats and debilitated animals (which most strays are). Call your veterinarian for alternatives to flea baths.

4. After handling your new stray or his litter box, wash your hands thoroughly. If you have other cats at home, you may want to change your clothes after handling the stray to avoid transferring contagions.

At your stray's first veterinary check-up here are some things to expect:

1. The stray should be scanned for a microchip. Some strays are actually lost pets. The rightful owners will be grateful to know he has been found safe and sound!

2. Especially if you have other cats at home, a Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) test should be done. This is a simple blood test that can show if the stray has these viruses. Inadvertant introduction of theses viruses into your existing cat household can be devastating.Your veterinarian can explain the details of the diseases and testing.

3. The stray should be dewormed according to your veterinarian's protocol. Aside from tapeworms, most intestinal parasites are not readily obvious in the stool. Assume all strays have worms. After all, if the cat was eating rodents to survive he surely has worms!

4. Your veterinarian can treat the fleas, ticks, ear mites, lice or other external parasite(s) found. Be sure to ask if you need to clean where the kitty has been hanging out at home. Many parasites can only be eliminated after multiple treatments plus environmental decontamination.

Larry, Day 3

5. Many strays have upper respiratory infections stemming from common feline viruses. Your veterinarian may recommend vaccinating against feline distemper to help prevent complications from these infections. Depending on the stray's estimated age, your veterinarian may recommend the rabies vaccine as well.

6. Once your new kitty has been determined to be in good health, it is time to consider sterilization surgery. It is easy to tell if an adule male cat has been neutered, but much harder to tell if an adult female has been spayed. Spaying and neutering not only eliminates unwanted litters, but reduces unpleasant behaviors and future health problems.

Now that your stray kitty has a clean bill of health, you can settle down to enjoy the rare pleasures that come from feline companionship! You have been chosen by this kitty to provide the care necessary for his comfortable life. If your stray is like most I've met (including Larry), he is overflowing with affection and devotion.